Saturday, April 22, 2023

Having Ultimaker Feeder Issues – Try this design!.Ultimaker 3 feeder issues free

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.Ultimaker 3 feeder issues free



 

Is there something wrong with the alignment in my machine which could cause this? Is there a fundamental issue with the design? We know that I am not the only one to have lever problems, as the Ultimaker Support guys shared a picture which had the grooved lever like mine was.

Are there more users such as dmboston who are having the same failed part? What can we do to remedy this as users? Do we need to switch over to a different material in the lever construction to solve this? I mean, a lever machined from Al sounds awesome, albeit expensive. I should note that I have made the following modifications to my printer since the last time I posted here:.

So, out of curiosity, how do you load your filament? Do you pull up on the lever and pass material in, then use the motor power to get it to the head? Or do you use the motor power to feed it in from the start using the "load" option in material settings? I agree, an Al lever seems like it might be better, but I'd go with die-cast, much cheaper?

I have used both the auto load and cold load where I lift the lever and insert to the end before using the "move" function to put the filament in the correct spot. The cold load happens most often as a matter of convenience when the damaged filament can be pulled out from the Bowden tube, snipped, then reinserted easily. Which extruder are you having trouble with?

If it is the left side, the filament spool is not perfectly in line with the extruder. It might be an issue of the filament coming in at a weird angle. There was a suggestion earlier in this topic by gr5 that spools on the floor work best. Perhaps this is another solution. Limited access can complicate things, especially when there is that one person in the lab that does things in an odd manner there is always that guy.

You are correct that I am the sole operator of this printer. Die cast might be an option if we have enough people that express desire. If this is a thing, I have experience running group buys for mechanical keyboards, so I would not be above setting one up if the community becomes interested. The lever splitting like that definitely looks unusual; while I have seen the groove issue, I haven't seen one split like this.

The levers are press fit with specialized tools. It's always possible the tolerances was off on one of the plastic pieces; respond back on your ticket on the support system and we'll get another lever out on Monday. Thanks, but I'm honestly not that worried about the splitting. That can be easily remedied with glue and a clamp. I'm more concerned about what causes the split. If it is a press-fit thing that can be fixed with glue, that is dandy. If the split occurred due to some mis-alignment, then there are bigger problems.

It is a press-fit. The bearings on the housing parts are also press-fit. If your motor feeder motor is screwed in tight and none of the bearings have popped out, I don't think there should anything to worry about alignment-wise. The grinding issue continued for a few months after this thread died. The Ultimaker support folks at fbrc8 shout out to Spencer P.

We went through several iterations of tests and fixes. During which we found that:. In the end, the fix came due to weather changes. I was working on my printer before and after the first big cold front of the autumn came through.

Once my shop got cold, things got better. I have been running my printer since then with no issues related to this grinding problem. So what was this weather like? There were several hiatuses during the email chain with Spencer P. The shop is a converted garage with poor insulation and no climate controls. I was only running automated stuff like the printer, server, etc. Tiny tools and electronics are difficult to handle when covered in sweat. But with the cold front change in the weather, the humidity dropped.

My shop became usable, and the printer started working. Remember how I replaced one of the Bowden tubes because I could no longer fit filament through it? Once the humidity was down, the filament could go through the old tube. I think there may have been a combination of mushy filament and Bowden tube friction that caused grinding failures.

But I don't hold Ultimaker to blame. Sure, this could have gone much better, but I have access to a strong support forum and support persons through them. Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , April SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Ultimaker S5 feeder problems and grinding. Share More sharing options Followers 3. Recommended Posts. LePaul Posted February 20, I've reached out to Support and hopeful they can offer some advice I haven't thought of.

Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options SandervG 1, Posted February 20, Picture coming. More testing. Dim3nsioneer Posted February 20, If not done already, check if the Bowden tube is mounted the correct way round. LePaul Posted February 21, I've been working with Erin over to support on this. I reloading the PVA and it was trickling out of the hot end. Still working through some ideas.

PVA is tricky With the cover off, we can see how it should work. LePaul Posted February 24, Perfect, thanks! Hi LePaul , Your post is very interesting. We are using Ultimaker natural PVA kept in the provision store. Have you found a solution for this issue? But after a few prints it got back to a clogged head i. SandervG 1, Posted September 9, I'll let know if this helped or not.

Default profile is what we are using currently. So, Thanks for all your guidances, I do have some threads I can try before reverting to you. Step by step, I will first continue with the BB 0. Then, go back to BB 0. If it does not work, redo the process after having ordered the metal blades. LePaul Posted September 9, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community.

But after minutes, it clogs up and doesn't print any more. I already tried to clean the print head, cleaned the feeder itself incl.

I also tried to change the pressure of the feeder, all to no avail so far. I did only a visual check of the bowden tube, there doesn't seem to be any debris creating additional friction. Sometimes the feeder really grinds into the material, and you see where it was blocked, but quite often it also is only having slight signs of having been blocked just a bit of additional material taken away, no full grind.

I'm a bit lost what might be the reason, anyone has had such stubborn levels of non-feeding already? Hi StefanF ,. As lack of this fan gradually increase the temperature at the "cold" upper part of the heat block and make filament become soft here before entering the heater so it will create a lot of additional load for the feeder.. Hi Torgeir ,. There actually was some PLA residue inside mostly threads ; I removed what I saw but didn't really think about it too much, so there might be enough left to block it.

Do you have some hints how to clean that fan best? Great, hmm -you might look more closely with a good light and see if there is more that's locking the fan from rotating. So here's a video made by fbrc8-erin if needed to open the extruder unit:.

Hey, I guess you were right. The video is awesome, I already disassembled it with this guideline, which is also nice:. That menu does not control the front fan. So 40mm is well within the max of 60mm. It warps. It's the white part touching the heater block.

Test it by removing it and passing filament though it by hand. Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator.

Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove.

Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious it just won't print. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. But some manufacturers especially in china make true 3. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain.

I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube.

Thank you very much gr5 for your help, fixed my problem. I now have a functional 3d printer again. I'm running into the same problem now. Brand new UM2 extended not extended plus - I have the upgrade kit on order. I printed 3 things on it, and all of them came out well. Until this morning. I re-leveled the bed and I started printing. The printer seemed to start okay, and got about halfway through the raft, then I heard it making an odd noise every second or so.

I walked over and found the head still moving but nothing coming out of the extruder I did notice the feeder in the back was slipping. The filament would move about a quarter inch, then slip back.

I took the filament out and found this:. I followed web advice and detached the bowden tube ends to check for blockages.

 

Ultimaker 3 feeder issues free.



 

By whoneycApril 14, in Improve your 3D prints. No harm in a little shameless promotion. The parts sent from fbrc8 were ultimaker 3 feeder issues free for by the NA support folks. I haven't heard back from them, but I'm guessing they aren't too into doing a full isskes.

I'm just a little curious about the Bondtech feeders you have as a veeder note. I see a two-part feeder gear, and that is the only real difference. Is the rest of the kit really necessary if I can't print my own custom lever? Do the 1. For support, we send out whatever parts are needed under the warranty so all OEM parts, no bondtech.

It looks like my technichian responded on your ultimaker 3 feeder issues free thread after this last post and has some other things to try with you that he wanted to check out. May 20, Sorry I didn't see this earlier. Feedfr I don't answer you feel free to post simply a " gr5" once per day until Нажмите чтобы перейти notice.

June 6, It's a spot where wear and tear can occur on the lever if the filament isn't quite sitting straight on the bearing; it's not super common but we've seen a few cases. I just put the label on the box ac. April 15, I find ultimaier WedgeBot an indispensable tool ultimker working with feeder problems. My sarcasm doesn't always come across in text.

Thanks for saying that S responded with some stuff to try. His email got bumped into spam, so I might not have noticed it. I don't recommend a 1. You can I believe buy only the bondtech gears with the splined feeder part and design ultimaker 3 feeder issues free own feeder around that.

The UM3 feeder ultimsker quite well though in my experience. The plan now is to shred it all подробнее на этой странице make thicker filament on the Filastruder. I will be sure to post information for you ulttimaker as well as on the Filastruder forums.

I have probably 8kg of unusable filament now, be it 1. I also have 5 kg of virgin PLA to mix in. I know that PLA isn't friendly for heat recycling, so I had a crazy idea. I bought some methylene chloride and ultimaker 3 feeder issues free dye. The ultimaker 3 feeder issues free primary degradation pathway for PLA during repeated extrusions is free radical damage. One method to stabilize these radicals is /37566.txt add a quinone-based additive, which preferentially absorbs ultimaker 3 feeder issues free free radicals before they can ultimaker 3 feeder issues free damage to the polymer.

My plan is to make some masterbatch from the virgin PLA with a crazy high loading of alizarin, which is a quinone also cheap and accessible to the public.

My hypothesis is that I will end up with way isses orange-red polymer than I know what to do with, but the material will be stable enough for recycling. If that ultimakr, I will publish it on this forum, the Filastruder forum, and an appropriate academic journal. Curious to know izsues your ultimakef is working, and if you have any updates on your recycling project.

I had the feever issue, and noticed the same isssues marks on the tension lever, and also the top of the feeder housing before the filament goes into the bowden tube. I finally contacted the NA support, fortunately the printer was under warranty, and replaced the feeder. No problems now! Thanks to the ixsues at the Ссылка на продолжение customer support for helping me get my printer running super quickly.

I have not forgotten about this thread, and I had no intention of leaving without reporting a final solution. However, it started acting up again with the same underextrusion patterns on feedee latest print.

Sadly, this error came up on the feedeg week as my back went out and I was driving my cat around to different emergency vets, so it got pushed to the back-burner. I have not taken apart the посетить страницу источник yet to check for damage to the lever, but I will do that as soon as possible. As promised,here is an update. I'm tagging the folks that have been helpful and seem to be running some support shops: gr5 fbrc8-erin kmanstudios.

I ran this off and on for about two weeks without issue. I produced 3 moderately sized statues during this time using PLA issuss Breakaway filament in the extruders.

I did this for more than just a desire to collect a pantheon of archaic gods, but because ultimaker 3 feeder issues free were designs with complex surfaces and required a lot of material switching aka lots of retractions. These were all successful. I had one hiccup with a failed print that made my heart skip, but that was just a simple filament tangle.

No big deal. I was telling any friends and family that feigned concern for my printer woes that the issue was fixed. And so I believed it was, until recently. I printed a very ultimaker 3 feeder issues free design with few, if any retractions, for my filawinder build. This print failed with the mesh-like underextrusion I have grown to loathe with a passion. So there is a still a problem. Naturally, since the lever was recently replaced, I looked to it first as the source of problems.

And as I suspected, the lever did have a problem. The two halves of the lever which are held in place by a friction lock as designed by the manufacturer, had partially separated. You issuex see in the image that the axis holding the bearing in place has separated, making it such that the bearing is not aligned. I corrected this issue by pressing the halves back together, but something about the tactile feedback in my fingers after I had pressed it together suggested that it is not permanently affixed.

I believe it will happen again. I doubt this was a spontaneous split. I believe that the torsion of the filament in the feeder issies applying a force to the bearing or plastic slot such feecer the part splits.

I will be continuing to print to see if this continues to occur. Isdues more information is brought to our attention on this, let's do a little speculation. What is causing this to occur? Is there something wrong with the alignment ultimaker 3 feeder issues free my machine which could cause this? Is there a fundamental issue with the design? We know that I am not the only one to have lever problems, as the Ultimaker Support guys shared a picture which had the grooved lever like mine was.

Are ulyimaker more users such /30170.txt dmboston isskes are having the same failed part? What can we do to remedy this as users?

Do we need to switch over to rree different material in ultimaker 3 feeder issues free lever construction to solve this? I mean, a lever machined from Al sounds awesome, albeit expensive. I should note that I have made the following modifications to my printer since the last time I posted here:. So, out of curiosity, how do you load your filament? Do you pull up on the lever and pass material in, then use the motor power to get it to the head? Or do you use the motor power to feed it in from the start using the "load" option in material settings?

I agree, an Al lever seems like it might be better, but I'd go with die-cast, much cheaper? I have used both the auto load and cold load where I lift the ultimaker 3 feeder issues free and insert to the end before using the "move" function to put the filament in the correct spot. The cold load happens most often as a matter of convenience when the damaged filament can be pulled out from the Bowden tube, snipped, frse reinserted easily.

Iswues extruder are you having trouble with? If it is the left side, the filament spool is not perfectly in line with the extruder. It might be an issue of the filament coming in at a weird angle. There was a ultimakerr earlier in this topic by gr5 that spools on the floor work best. Perhaps this is another solution. Limited access can complicate things, especially when there is that one person in the lab that does things in an odd manner there is always that guy.

You are correct that I am the sole приведенная ссылка of this printer. Die cast might be an option if we ultimakker enough people that express desire. If this is a thing, I have experience running group buys for mechanical keyboards, so I would not be above setting one up if the community becomes interested.

The lever splitting like that definitely looks unusual; while I have seen the groove issue, I haven't seen one split like this. The levers ffeder press fit with specialized tools. It's always possible the tolerances was off on one of feeeder plastic pieces; respond back on your ticket on the support system and we'll get another lever out on Monday. Thanks, but I'm honestly not that worried about the splitting.

That can be internet speed booster windows free download remedied with glue and a clamp. I'm more concerned about what causes the split. If it is a press-fit thing that can be fixed with ultimaker 3 feeder issues free, ultimakeg is dandy.

If the split occurred due to some mis-alignment, then there are bigger problems.

   


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